Textile technological analysis of old fabrics with large and complex patterns

Abstract

Analysis of old fabric samples is crucial in order to come to the knowledge of the method of sample preparation and origin, and possibly their replication today. The paper gives a thorough overview and analysis of preserved fabric fragments from the cope, so-called pluviale, from 1760, which was worn during the benediction and procession of the Most Holy Sacrament in the Dubrovnik region. This fabric sample is part of the ethnic heritage of Croatia, which characterizes one of the types of fabrics that were woven and worn at that time. According to the preserved fabric fragments a replica of pluviale was made and the finding site of this fabric part was found. Since this is an extremely valuable preserved old item, restoration and analysis of the fabric were performed with great caution. The process of restoration and conservation are not dealt with in this paper. Using the new equipment allowing precise image magnification and sharpening enables an easier analysis of the fabric without its damaging. It has a very complex and large pattern with extremely high density in the warp direction. The fabric made of natural silk was woven with multiple effects, by exchanging patterned multicolored wefts. Due to the relatively poor condition of the fabric sample and the complexity of making, a thorough textile technological analysis was a long-term and complex process.