Method for Evaluation of Flared Garment Drapeability

Abstract

This paper presents a method for evaluation of flared garment drapeability. Shape of the specimens used for the investigations was like the evolvent of truncated cone. This shape of specimen simulates a flared garment which drapes under gravity to the complex three-dimensional shape with double curvature. The upper side of specimen has been supported to the vertical plate simulating the lie of real garment on a human‘s body. Digital views of bottom side of specimens, described by the parameters of waves, have been used for the analysis of garment deformation under gravity. The influence of fabric properties anisotropy to the drape of flared garment has been evaluated investigating a deformable behaviour of specimens cut in various directions. Regression analysis has been used to determine equations relating measurements of horizontal projection of draped specimens with fabric properties. The influence of fabric properties anisotropy and the seam at the same time to the drape of flared garment has been evaluated investigating a deformable behaviour of specimens cut in various directions and joined to a system by a seam. It was determined that the seam considerably influences the shape of specimens systems when specimens are cut in bias directions. The seam looses its vertical position and the system of specimens loses symmetry of its shape. The rate of seam‘s declination depends on the rate of anisotropy of woven fabric properties. A mathematical model for prediction of shape of horizontal projection of draped specimens and specimens systems with seam has been presented in this paper.