Dyeing Wool with Natural Dyes in the Light of Ethnological Heritage of Lika

Abstract

Croatia is a country of extremely rich ethnological heritage, which is most clearly seen in diversity of folk costumes in the country. Matching shapes and hues vivid elements are created in folk costumes of certain areas. The old wool hand made artefacts of the Gacka valley (alje, kanice, socks, bags, biljci, šarenice) all are made in rich hues. Chromatically neutral tones are predominant (dark red, brownish yellow, olive green, brown ...) with small content of clear tones. Dyeing wool with natura} dyes colour tones from the Gacka valley (19th century) are obtained, following the ethnological heritage of the area. Natural materials from Lika are used, such as oak bark (Quercus aegilops L.), ash-tree bark (Fraxinus excelsior L.) and green walnut shell (Juglans regia L.). Salts are selected as mordants - potassium aluminium(IIl)sulphate (KAl(SQ4)2), copper(II)sulphate (CuSO4), iron(II)sulphate (FeSO4) and tin(Il)chloride (SnCl2). Coloration tone as compared to the test specimen is assessed both subjectively (organoleptically) and spectrophotometrically, by defining C*, L*, H*, a* and b* values.